The final hard moves of Sissy Traverse with the "Peanut Gallery" below.

About 12 years ago I sat below the wall of The Gallery, one of the most popular cliffs at Red Rock Canyon.  I was maxing out at 5.11 and trying to work up the guts to try to lead Yak Crack, 5.11c. But while I was waiting to climb, I watched this small-framed, ripped, twenty-something […]

China Doll extension
Photo credit:  Jon Glassberg

I woke up in the middle of the night covered in sweat.  I had just fallen sideways onto the ledge again- this time in my dreams- but my heart was racing and my throat closing.  It was just a dream but this was not comforting enough to go back to sleep.  Only a few more […]

Moments after finishing the 24 hours of climbing.  Looking squinty and dirty.

“Repeat after me…Partner!” “PARTNER!” Chris and I are standing face-to-face in costume at the craziest climbing event of all time, holding up our palms, as Jeremy Collins roars to 276 other climbers in outlandish garb at the top of his lungs.  We pledge his preparatory oath to each other. We are about to climb together […]

Dances With Cows, 13a.

“I’m in Ten Sleep.” “Where?” My brother asks on my drive through Wyoming. “Ten Sleep…like the number…and like, what you do when you’re tired.” To climbers, mention the name Ten Sleep and there’s immediate recognition.  It’s famous in our little world for its vertical limestone cliffs filled with tendon stretching pockets and skin-shredding crimps.  Climbers come […]

Rehearsing Sexy Chocolate, 5.11 Team Weidner FA

I’m soaking wet and shivering, desperately hanging on to the side of our tipped canoe as the river pushes us along.  One day I’ll look back on this moment and laugh, I thought.  But for now, this really sucks. Our boat was riding low.  We were a team of six with three canoes, setting out […]

Shortly after staring down this micro-crimp on Die Reeperbahn, 13b in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, and falling off, I broke down and cried.  I was disappointed in myself and thought I wouldn't be able to do the crux.  I realized shortly after how silly it was to get so upset, and the next day out I sent the route.  Photo credit:   Jon Glassberg

“Your head will collapse If there’s nothing in it And you’ll ask yourself Where is my mind?”  -The Pixies Climbing is not all about being physically strong. This is what I love about this sport- our success is largely dependent on our mental strength. I find this fulfilling, otherwise I might decide to be a […]

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Accounts of Argentina, Alpinism, and Abdominal Surgery I watched the abdomen fill with bright red blood. Trying to slow the bleeding with sterile gauze was as effective as drying out a swimming pool with paper towels. As the blood in her abdominal cavity continued to rise, I felt my own leave my head and my […]

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