Last summer I climbed the hardest trad route of my life, China Doll, a 5.14a R in Boulder Canyon, CO. Jon Glassberg, of Louder Than 11, was interested in documenting the process, and wanted to make a climbing film that was different- not just about sending and then being happy.  He wanted to reveal raw […]

Hey everyone!  If you or someone you know wants to learn how to sport climb but there’s no time for the gym, or maybe you’ve been climbing a few times but you want to hone in on your skills, please check out my online course through AIM media and Climbing Magazine. We go through everything […]

Over the past year I’ve been working with Arno Ilgner of the Warrior’s Way for mental training in climbing.  When we first started working together, I had just finished the biggest project of my career, a 5.14 trad climb in Boulder Canyon, CO, called China Doll. I had worked on it over a year and […]

It’s somewhere around midnight, and my headlamp lights up a mess of four ropes at my feet.  We’re on the side of a cliff in the middle-of-nowhere South Africa.  Far in the distance are scattered lights of small villages, but I’m surrounded by darkness.  Nine hundred feet up the wall on a quartzite ledge, I’m […]

In a sport like climbing, so dependent on mental fortitude, where is all the information on training the mind?  I find it crazy how many resources there are about fingerboarding and campus workouts, but so few  on how to deal with fear and the ego?  Am I alone with these feelings of negative self-worth in […]

Over the past 6 weeks I’ve done a lot of soul-searching.  It sounds so cliche, and has been written about time and time again.  From A Walk in the Woods to Wild, the theme of pursuing new challenges with self-reflection is enough to makes some of us want to vomit in our mouths. But for […]

Launching into the upper crux of my long-term project, my sympathetic nervous system took over. My mouth was cotton and my heart was racing. It was key to get the first finger-lock just right, if not I’d slip out before I had a chance to get pumped. I wiggled my right middle and ring fingers […]