Training your body is only one part of what it takes to climb at your limit and have fun, too.  Taking advantage of "Club Tread" in Las Vegas.  Photo credit:  Celin Serbo

In a sport like climbing, so dependent on mental fortitude, where is all the information on training the mind?  I find it crazy how many resources there are about fingerboarding and campus workouts, but so few  on how to deal with fear and the ego?  Am I alone with these feelings of negative self-worth in […]

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Over the past 6 weeks I’ve done a lot of soul-searching.  It sounds so cliche, and has been written about time and time again.  From A Walk in the Woods to Wild, the theme of pursuing new challenges with self-reflection is enough to makes some of us want to vomit in our mouths. But for […]

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Launching into the upper crux of my long-term project, my sympathetic nervous system took over. My mouth was cotton and my heart was racing. It was key to get the first finger-lock just right, if not I’d slip out before I had a chance to get pumped. I wiggled my right middle and ring fingers […]

Celin Serbo timing a photo of my Wake Up Fall just right.

My right index finger is slipping out of its sandy lock- all I have to do to get through the crux is hike my right foot up on a good hold on the arete. I haphazardly pop my right foot up. Miraculously, it’s on the hold! But as I attempt to rock my weight onto […]

The final hard moves of Sissy Traverse with the "Peanut Gallery" below.

About 12 years ago I sat below the wall of The Gallery, one of the most popular cliffs at Red Rock Canyon.  I was maxing out at 5.11 and trying to work up the guts to try to lead Yak Crack, 5.11c. But while I was waiting to climb, I watched this small-framed, ripped, twenty-something […]

China Doll extension
Photo credit:  Jon Glassberg

I woke up in the middle of the night covered in sweat.  I had just fallen sideways onto the ledge again- this time in my dreams- but my heart was racing and my throat closing.  It was just a dream but this was not comforting enough to go back to sleep.  Only a few more […]

Moments after finishing the 24 hours of climbing.  Looking squinty and dirty.

“Repeat after me…Partner!” “PARTNER!” Chris and I are standing face-to-face in costume at the craziest climbing event of all time, holding up our palms, as Jeremy Collins roars to 276 other climbers in outlandish garb at the top of his lungs.  We pledge his preparatory oath to each other. We are about to climb together […]